Preparations

Another Antarctic season is rapidly approaching. I will depart from Salt Lake City, bound for Punta, Arenas, Chile on December 10th. The time in Punta will be filled with preparations for the Antarctic, both personal and with clients. On December 16th I will fly to the Antarctic and to the new camp located at Union Glacier. From there myself and a group of 4 clients will be flown to 89 S to ski the last degree to the South Pole. This trip should take a week to ten days. I will be at the pole for the New Year. After returning to Union Glacier from the pole I will have a week of skiing and climbing around undiscovered terrain before heading to Vinson Massif. Once at Vinson I will once again guide the mountain and with any luck summit with a client. We will hopefully also have time to climbing Mount Shinn from high camp. It is going to be a new experience for me, as I have never been working at the end of the Antarctic season. My flight home is scheduled for January 25th. I will not be able to maintain current updates as I have in years past due to unpredictable nature of guiding in various arenas this season. Please check in and see how the progress is going, and make sure to let Santa know he has a big kid down south who only wants stable weather for Christmas!

Same same but different

Merry Christmas Everyone! I hope everyone is having a wonderful Christmas
Day. As you would expect it is a very white Christmas here at Vinson Base
Camp. I remember when I was a kid growing up in Cleburne, Texas I used to
pray for a snow storm on Christmas eve. On Christmas eve laying in bed as a
child I could struggle to fall asleep anxiously curious not only about what
Santa might bring, but wondering whether or not the brown Texas ground would
be covered in a blanket of white when I arose. I laid in my sleeping bag
last night. I thought about my friends and family. I thought about all the
things I was thankful for in life. Then I found myself unable to fall
asleep. Not because I was anticipating presents being purged from under
neither a twinkling tree, but praying that it would not snow! I know it
seems strange, but for as excited I would get for new fallen snow back in
Cleburne, I was equally hopeful that it would be sunny when I unzipped my
tent this morning. Low and behold it was! I awoke at 7am to a cloudless
sky. After days and days of cloud, fog, and wind, finally a clear blue
morning. COLD as all get out, but clear none the less. I had descended
from High Camp 3 days ago attempting to climb Mt. Shinn. A peak just to the
west of Vinson Massif, Mt Shinn provides an excellently steep alternative to
the moderate slopes of the massif. However on our summit day we awoke to
ominous clouds and temperamental winds. We decided after breakfast, as the
cloud bore down on high camp, that we would descend and work on the lower
mountain. Since then we have been here at VBC watching after clients,
playing backgammon, and eating loads of food. Last night we tucked the
clients in after a marathon 5 hour monopoly game. You could only see 100
meters out of camp, so there was no skiing or walking around to be done.
Just hanging out. This morning we started reporting weather observations at
9.30am, but much like last year, there has been a delay in launching any
planes to VBC. Similarly to last season on this day, although the weather
was pristine this morning, it is slowly deteriorating. We will see what the
day presents, but if the weather clears, we will hopefully fly to Patriot
Hills today. One step closer to Punta Arenas, and then onto Texas. In fact
I need to go do a weather observations right now!! Merry Christmas, stay
warm, and enjoy each other. I miss you guys!

Love
Chris

Vinson Base Camp
Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions
vinson.base@antarctic-logistics.com

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Going back up!

Going back up!

Weather has cleared and I am on my way up the mountain today. With a solid
forecast for the next three days myself and another guide are heading up to
low camp tonight on skis, light and fast. The next day we will move up the
fixed lines to high camp. We have a few projects up at high camp, like
building snow walls, working on the fixed lines and finding out what is
wrong with the repeater. We are also going to go up towards the summit and
install another pee-hole in the ice. The following day we will attempt to
climb Mt. Shinn, the third tallest on the continent. Time permitting we
will do some rescue exercises on the fixed lines and test various systems.
After that I will be returning to VBC with the intent of flying to Patriot
Hills, then home!! Final stretch on the ice! Wish me luck! I will write
again as soon as I return to VBC. If I don't make it back before Christmas,
Merry Christmas everyone! Have a great holiday and enjoy friends, family,
and warmth!!

Cheers,
Chris

Vinson Base Camp
Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions
vinson.base@antarctic-logistics.com

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The First Vinson of the Season

We greeted an anxious and excited group of four clients on November 28th.
One client was from Spain, one from Luxemburg, one from Austria, and one
from the States. The group was very friendly and from the get go were all
happy to be with one another. They arrived very late on the evening of the
28th and after many cups of tea and coffee we sent them to bed. The
following day we spent most of the morning organizing gear and preparing
their technical equipment for the days ahead. Most all of them had
experience and the one that didn't was a quick study. Pachi and I split the
four into two pair and Namgya who was meant to be a ranger on V1 hitched a
ride on Pachi's rope team. Around 3pm we set off up the glacier on a
beautiful cloudless day. Although each person had different levels of
fitness the teams moved swiftly and efficiently, making it to low camp in
4.5 hours including rest breaks. My group arrived first and began erecting
tents. By the time Pachi and Namgya's rope team strolled into camp we had
two tents up. The evening was cold but calm. We cooked dinner in our new
posh tent (a tent designed for cooking, it looks like a circus tent) that
evening and after sent everyone to their tents. That evening the
temperature fell to -25. During the night my feet got very cold, which
isn't typical for low camp. Later I would find a small hole in the bottom
of my sleeping bag that had been slowly ejecting down feathers, leaving the
nylon limp, loftless, and frigged. Low camp is in shade from 2am-11am, so
we instructed the team to stay in their tents until the sun hit the tent
walls. Around 11.30 we assembled the group to discuss the day. Pachi and I
had decided to have the team take a rest day. Although the weather was good
enough to move we thought it best that they take it slow and acclimatize.
We did general chores around camp like building walls, fixing equipment, and
preparing for moving to high camp the following day. Later in the evening
Pachi took the group for a short walk to look at the old route to high camp
and to observe the start of the fixed lines. That evening was warmer and
everyone slept well. We all were up and moving at 11.30 the following
morning and to our advantage the teams were roped together and moving by 1
pm. Once on the fixed lines the team moved much slower and more deliberate.
One of my clients struggled to keep his breathing under control, but pushed
himself to each anchor before taking short breaks. It took us 4 hours to
ascend the 3,000' of line and an additional hour to get to high camp.
Pachi's team moved well and was only 30 minutes behind. When we arrived at
camp we were devastated by the fact that our cache had not only been covered
by 3 feet of snow, but the snow seemed to be impervious and hard pack.
There was one shovel handle exposed and after 30 minutes of chipping with my
ice axe I was able to free it from the glaciers strong grasp. With only one
shovel digging out our cache became an exercise in stamina. I felt like we
were in a prison camp being asked to do a manual task that seemed impossibly
challenging and appeared fruitless. Then a yellow tent bag was spotted. It
has started to snow and the cloud had enveloped camp hastening our efforts
and giving us all a sense of urgency. Once we pulled out the first tent
bag, a second and third were found, eventually giving way to a cave filled
with all the immensities we had left in the cache including food and fuel.
After melting snow for drinking water and rehydrating food for the group we
finally climbed into our sleeping bags around 2am. The night was restless
for many of us. Sleeping at altitude is never very pleasant. However the
night was warm which is also unusual for high camp. We arose to a mostly
clear day. One ominous fact kept us from trying to push towards the summit.
From the tops of the highest peaks in the range, white plumes of snow were
being blown leeward high into the ski. This meant it would be a windy
summit day, so we once again decided to have the group rest and mentally
prepare for the summit day ahead. In the morning we set off around 9 am
walking slowly cramponing the upper plateau of Vinson Massif. It took both
groups almost 6 hours to reach the base of the summit pyramid. Most
everyone was feeling the altitude causing the progress to be sluggish but
steady. As we wrapper around the base of the pyramid to gain the ridge
leading to summit the wind picked up. What had been a flawless day as far
as weather was concerned was beginning to cool off. With down jackets,
mittens, and goggles on we moved over the rocky terrain. This is the only
part of the route that feels exposed and alpine and I reveled in it.
Growing excited not about the summit, but about moving over stone, and
feeling the thrill of thousands of feet of air inches from each step. At
3pm we all stood atop the tallest peak in Antarctica. Everyone hugged and
expressed their happiness in various ways. Mine was a simple 30 second
phone call to Katie to let her know that I was safe and had gone as high as
possible! There was of course many summit photos to be had. Individual,
group, sponsorship photos, my fingers we numb and I really wanted to wait
for the second group to arrive. We waited on summit for 40 minutes, but
decided to move for fear of frostbite or worse. Just as we began to travel
back to the safety of the col, Pachi came cresting over a rock infested
mound. We hugged each of them as they past. Helmut the oldest, with the
last of the seven summits in his sights was already teary eyed and primed
for an emotional event. We congratulated everyone on their way to the
summit and continued quickly down. Once at the base of the summit block I
was able to relax a bit and enjoy the moment. The decent is always the more
tenuous portion of the journey for me. Although we had miles of crevassed
ice to cover before camp, I felt a release and smiled, ice cracking free
from my beard. It took us another 2.5 hours to get back to high camp. I
again congratulated them before firing up the MSR mountain stoves to melt
snow for water. Pachi arrived an hour later and we cheered them into camp.
Everyone basked in the moment, guides and clients alike. The evening was
calm and surprisingly warm. We made a plan to leave high camp early with
the intent on arriving all the way to base camp by 3pm. We had heard rumor
the a plane had come in and there was a prospect of flying them back to
Patriot Hills that evening. We all arose around 7.30am with tents still in
the shade and packed for a long descent. The fixed lines were in the shade
as well making the descent cold and slow, but the groups made good time,
arriving at low camp within only a few hours. The sun was just kissing camp
when we arrived. We stayed at low camp only a few minutes, picking up sleds
and full wag bags (the bags that each individual users to store his/her poop
in). We set off for VBC and within another 2 short hours we had covered
enough glacier to arrive at our destination. Our journey to climb Vinson
Massif had been a success and everyone was elated to be back. Darren made
the group a lovely soup and shortly after our arrival the Twin Otter arrived
to whisk the team away to the comforts of Patriot Hills. I was sad that our
time with them was short, but I was happy at or efficiency and pleased with
our results. Pachi, Darren, and I sat back and had a cold beer to celebrate
the success. Namgya unfortunately was requested to stay at high camp and
assist with another group moving up. He is still there today, waiting a
weather window to go back to summit with a different group. He is an
animal. The weather is currently very poor and I am again happy that we
were speedy enough to climb the mountain and return in good weather. As
always, if you have made it this far, thanks for reading and I hope all are
having a wonderful beginning to the month of December.

Cheers,
Chris

Vinson Base Camp
Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions

Late Night

After an exhausting night of Twin Otter landings, briefings, and endless
cups of tea, we are finally all here for V1. We finished our evening around
2am. Our 4 clients finally touched down here at VBC around 9pm. After the
initial shock of being here set in and photos were taken we had them settle
into their tents and meet for a briefing over coffee and tea. The Twin
Otter took off from VBC and transported another expedition bound for Tyree.
Darren went with to photograph the route. We were all very jealous, me
especially considering I have been wanting to climb that mountain since I
first learned of its existence. The plane then went back to Patriot Hills
to deliver another group of clients and their guide to VBC later that
evening. Just after midnight the Otter gracefully landed again at VBC and 5
more people joined the fray. Now there are 13 people here. It feels like
city! We are all intending on heading up to low camp today. Pachi and I
will move with our clients and stay there tonight, while the other
expedition will carry to low camp and return to VBC to sleep. Our group is
stoked and seem fit. There is quite an age difference between the one being
my age and the other on almost in his 70's. Helmut, the oldest, is very
resilient. After a failed attempt last season with a different company he
has come back to try again with us. We are very excited to give him his
"last shot", this is also his finally attempt at completing the 7 summit.
We certainly will give it our best shot. We have time and with any luck we
will have good weather. Wish us luck! And with that, I am outta here.
Hopefully speak to you guys next week! Lots of love from Vinson Massif!

Chris

Vinson Base Camp
Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions

Clients on their way.

Today we awoke to clear skies and calm conditions. Although this is typical
for VBC it is the first time this season we have had such stable weather.
The forecast is calling for a stable weather pattern for at least 3 or 4
more days! We received news from Patriot Hills this morning that the IL-76
was to be launched this afternoon and we should prepare to have clients
arrive this evening. We are all excited to get this show on the road. On
this first rotation Pachi and myself and guiding two clients each. Namgya
will serve as a ranger and possibly help with either of our teams or an
additional American team that will be on the mountain at the same time. We
spent the remainder of the morning preparing for their arrival. Prepping
sleds, putting up tents, and preparing the runway for the Twin Otter to
land. Tonight we will all eat together here at VBC and do final
preparations to head up the mountain tomorrow. If all goes well the plan
will be to set off tomorrow early afternoon to low camp. We will either
take a rest day there or continue up to high camp via the fixed lines the
following day. If we have not had a rest day at the point we will rest at
high camp and prepare for the summit the following day. The conflict with
this plan is that Mark (the weather man at Patriot Hills) is calling for
20-30 knot winds on December 1st and 2nd. If that is the case things might
get difficult up high. So hopefully we will either move fast enough to be
up and down by then, or be in good position to hunker down and wait for a
good weather window to summit. My hope is that we can be up in down in 5 or
6 days, but it will all be weather dependent. Also as usual I will try and
convince them to climb something else, like Shinn (the 3rd tallest in
Antarctica), but it always seems like a difficult sell. The next Twin Otter
flight is scheduled for December 3rd, so if we move fast enough, they could
be out on that flight potentially, but not likely. So until I get back
down, hopefully with one more Vinson summit under my belt, I will be out of
touch. Happy December!!!

Thanks for reading!
Chris

Vinson Base Camp
Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions

FW: The Mountain So Far

Vinson Base Camp
Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions
vinson.base@antarctic-logistics.com

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-----Original Message-----
From: Vinson Base Camp [mailto:vinson.base@antarctic-logistics.com]
Sent: Friday, November 27, 2009 1:42 PM
To: 'bigmountaindreams@blogspot.com'; 'Nick Lewis'; 'Manager.Patriots'
Subject: The Mountain So Far

Hello from Vinson Base Camp

The last week has been very busy here on Vinson Massif. The start-up crew,
Darren, Namgya, Pachi, and I arrived on November 20. The Twin Otter pilots
did an amazing job landing the plane in poor visibility, no contrast, and
very little horizon to go off of. We all sprung into action as soon as the
Otter's doors were opened. The pilots jumped in and helped us with the
laborious task of digging out the Weather-haven and setting up our tents.
The Weather-haven was in great condition compared to last year. The crew
that put things away at the end of last season did an amazing job of leaving
things in an organized fashion. Although there had been some snow
deposition over the winter, the weather-haven was only half covered and our
second storage tent had very little coverage. We worked until 2 a.m. and
got much accomplished. The pilots stayed the night here at VBC as
conditions were too difficult to fly.

The following morning we all set to work, organizing and cleaning. At 3
p.m. the pilots were called back to Patriot Hills to transport a south pole
expedition to their starting point. For the next two days we worked on
getting camp put together. We established VHF/HF communication, erecting
two small comms antennas/towers. We also installed our solar panels and
began to charge batteries within the tent. The weather had been sub-par the
entire time, minus some sun shine one afternoon, in which we took the
opportunity to ski. The snow was better that I had ever seen it.

On the 24th the weather still had not cleared, but we were all anxious to
get going on the mountain, so the four of us set up hill in a white out. We
navigated via GPS until just before half camp, when we punched through the
heavy cloud layer to clear skies above. We got our first view of the summit
this season. We had placed wands on the lower route, almost to half camp,
but had run out of wands to mark the plateau from half camp to low camp.
After a brief rest at half camp we cruised on to low camp. The very large
crevasses that lie in between the two camps were filled in and solid. With
good visibility we put in a nice route all the way into half camp. Once we
arrived we began the process of digging out the cache that had been left
there. Again the break-down crew had left the cache organized and finding
our kit was relatively easy. And with a calm and cold evening ahead we set
up tents and cooked dinner in our tent vestibules. The following morning we
had intended to move up to high camp, but winds pounded the ridge above
sending plumes of snow over the knife edge ridge an into the thin air above.
We decided to take the opportunity to build low camp. Namgya snuffed out a
good quarry for snow blocks and the group spent the entire day building snow
walls to protect our tents and to protect the toilet. Digging and moving
heavy blocks all day left us tired and we all crawled into our sleeping bags
for some much needed rest.

The morning of the 25th we awoke to find the winds on the ridge still
present, but less threatening than the day. We all decided to start working
on establishing the 1200 meters of fixed line up the prominent ridge above
low camp that eventually leads to high camp. Our goal was to have two
parties, one team working on the line, Pachi and I, and the other, Darren
and Namgya travel on to high camp putting in the route and digging out our
cache. However once Darren and Namgya reached the upper ridge the winds
increased and forced a retreat back onto the lines. The four of us dug up
bags full of rope and tossed them down in 200m sections. The bags were full
of snow and ice, but the ropes were in immaculate condition. We unearthed
each anchor from their hibernation, to our surprise there had been very
little ablation and the Dyneema slings put in last season were in perfect
condition. We each took turnes on various sections of lines. We placed
intermediate pickets and ran lines out to lunch ledge (a rest spot, half way
up the route). Once the lines were intact we continued back to low camp as
the night became crisp and cold. Our work day ended around 11 p.m..

November 26 we all awoke to do a scheduled communication with Patriot Hills.
The wind had increased up high and sounded like a freight train rapidly
descending upon us. Although we were eager to move up higher the winds
would not allow. Rather than go up high an risk an epic we decided to
descend to VBC and get some additional in camp tasks finished. The way down
to VBC was fast but we did take the time to put in wand markers, that we had
stolen from low camp, and marked the route to half camp. The weather closed
in above us however the weather down at VBC was as it should be, sunny and
calm. The first clients that were intended to be here on the 27th have been
delayed in Punta Arenas. We are still unsure when they will arrive. Until
then we will continue to prepare camp, lay down runway markers, and put up
client tents in anticipation of their arrival.

I hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving and enjoyed friends and family.
Miss you guys!

Over and out...
Chris

Vinson Base Camp
Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions
vinson.base@antarctic-logistics.com

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